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03.03.2018 – Sump pump in the basement? Xenophobia Inwe selected xenophobia as our Word of the Year.
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1. 10The Netgear box also gives you a list of ALL domains that were surfed by your home networks.
2. 10 IEEE says that earth ground must exist.http://softik.org/zte-axon-7-eu/ http://softik.org/zte-axon-7-rom/It is thus felt that a computer based solution be developed, which can assist organizations in meeting their HR needs Java 2. Indian Date of Birth:
3. 7 Considering its other, more important features we like about the TLPTEL, we think the joule rating is high enough to give it a long life considering the price. I hereby declare that the above-furnished details are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief. http://softik.org/zte-z981-charger-port/This machine is ready to hit the ground running as soon as you take it out of the box.
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4. 2 Here by I assure that all given information is true and fair according to my knowledge. And due to the randomness of this they know that you’re a one time visitor and that they need to get your attention in a big way.Dr explain 4 2 478 create help files documentation and manuals with automatic scRavi Kant Saxena 2.
5. 6 While any appliance load can create a minor surge, these are not the typical destructive surges. Some of my electronics is 40 years old and would be difficult to replace.
6. 7 AC electric is not.
7. 10 Would like to know if there r any openings for me. YOU give up your privacy, by being forced to supply your name, address, and telephone number.
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It is an opportunity for us to reflect on the language and ideas that represented each year. So, take a stroll down memory lane to remember all of our past Word of the Year selections.
It wasn’t trendyfunny, nor was it coined on Twitterbut we thought change told a real story about how our users defined Unlike inchange was no longer a campaign slogan.
But, the term still held a lot of weight. Here’s an excerpt from our Word of the Year announcement in The national debate can arguably be summarized by the question: In the past two years, has there been enough change?
Has there been too much? Meanwhile, many Americans continue to face change in their homes, bank accounts and jobs. Only time will tell if the latest wave of change Americans voted for in the midterm elections will result in a negative or positive outcome.
This rare word was chosen to represent because it described so much of the world around us. Tergiversate means “to change repeatedly one’s attitude or opinions with respect to a cause, subject, etc.
And so, we named tergiversate the Word of the Year. In a year known for the Occupy movement and what became known as the Arab Spring, our lexicographers chose bluster as their Word of the Year for Here’s an excerpt from our release that year that gives a pretty good explanation for our choice:.
We got serious in Here’s an excerpt from our announcement in Things don’t get less serious in Our Word of the Year was exposurewhich highlighted the year’s Ebola virus outbreak, shocking acts of violence both abroad and in the US, and widespread theft of personal information.
Here’s what we had to say about exposure in From the pervading sense of vulnerability surrounding Ebola to the visibility into acts of crime or misconduct that ignited critical conversations about race, gender, and violence, various senses of exposure were out in the open this year.
Fluidity of identity was a huge theme in Racial identity also held a lot of debate inafter Rachel Dolezal, a white woman presenting herself as a black woman, said she identified as biracial or transracial.
Our Word of the Year in reflected the many facets of identity that surfaced that year. Inwe selected xenophobia as our Word of the Year. Fear of the “other” was a huge theme infrom Brexit to President Donald Trump’s campaign rhetoric.
Despite being chosen as the Word of the Year, xenophobia is not to be celebrated. It was a year of real awakening to complicity in various sectors of society, from politics to pop culture.
From our Word of the Year announcement:. Our choice for Word of the Year is as much about what is visible as it is about what is not. We must not let this continue to be the norm.
If we do, then we are all complicit. Everything After Z by Dictionary. Change It wasn’t trendyfunny, nor was it coined on Twitterbut we thought change told a real story about how our users defined Tergiversate This rare word was chosen to represent because it described so much of the world around us.
Bluster In a year known for the Occupy movement and what became known as the Arab Spring, our lexicographers chose bluster as their Word of the Year for Here’s an excerpt from our release that year that gives a pretty good explanation for our choice: Privacy We got serious in Identity Fluidity of identity was a huge theme in Xenophobia Inwe selected xenophobia as our Word of the Year.
From our Word of the Year announcement: Sign up for our Newsletter! Start your day with weird words, fun quizzes, and language stories.
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Acer Aspire One, better! I was able to squeeze out just a tad over 11 gigabytes free out of the C: The 5, V surge passed through the surge protector, was brought down to about V, then hit our display with more than three times the voltage of standard V AC power. Block banner ads and malicious web sites. I have done testing course from Ducat,Noida. Software That Assists personal department in maintaining records of attendance leave and payroll information attendance module downloads punch information attendance module downloads punch generates reports like absentees punches and overtime in each department employee module in the DMS is used to keep employee information like address application appraisal dependent attendance and experience it downloads all the group details like work group leave group etc for user to select information for their employee generates report for absentees overtime etc department wise at our request.
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This number is easy. Numbers expose that threat as bogus. We can discuss how protection really works using principles first taught in elementary school science. That means more numbers.
But this should be bluntly obvious. Effective solution — due to numbers — requires many and much longer posts. Not only do appliances already protect from 0. Appliances also use that energy to power themselves.
APC recently admitted same: With near zero joules, MOVs caused multiple potential office fires. Another one caused an aquarium to bust. Aquarium water extinguished that protector fire.
A completely different device that unfortunately shares a common and therefore confusing name. But one component must always exist in every effective solution. Above tests only reported on a type of surge that typically causes no damage.
If products are designed to protect from small surges, well, surges must be destructive to justify its costs. Above did not test for destructive surges. Where is effective protection? Surges too tiny to harm electronics may even damage power strip protectors.
Costs tens of times less money. And is essential to even protect power strip protectors. With numbers that say why it protects from all types of surges including direct lightning strikes.
Not a device that has a history of creating fires, can make appliance damage easier, and costs more money. Provided was an IEEE paper that discusses damage due to power strips.
Instead of asking for professional citations, why not read it? Even its conclusion is quoted. More facts are found in MOV manufacturer datasheets that explain why an undersized protector fails catastrophically.
Even says why to volt speculation was fiction. Why ignore datasheet numbers, professional citations, and fires created by power strips? Why protect from surges so small as to not cause appliance damage?
A many hundreds of joules surge destroyed a protector. An incoming surge is also outgoing into the connected appliance. That is how electricity works. Superior protection inside appliances means no appliance damage by a surge that easily destroys an attached protector.
Where is the protection? Above tests ignored that reality. Ignored were relevant concepts such as of voltage verses current sources, longitudinal verses normal mode, low wire impedance, and equipotential.
How does that exempt you from citing professional sources, basic electrical concepts, and spec numbers? A child also disassembled electronics. That makes him an expert?
Subjective claims say 0. That long list of undamaged appliances every hour is damning. How many times hourly are you replacing damaged dimmer switches, clock radios, and recharging mobile phones?
Electronics routinely convert that transient into useful power. Why fear noise 0. Why ignore concepts such as normal vs longitudinal mode, current vs voltage source, wire impedance, and equipotential?
Why are numbers from MOV datasheets ignored? Why not say where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? Does not require all residents to be specially trained even in how to connect an Xbox to a TV.
And essential so that a grossly undersized power strip does not cause house fires. What separates ineffective protectors from effective ones? An answer that demands numbers.
It appears to me that you would enjoy continuing this back-and-forth ad infinitum. I would rather make money or have fun, and I have plenty of opportunities to do both. However, I would be interested to see what happens when these devices are fed a stimulus of thousands of joules.
Please tell me what equipment I can use to do this. The point made repeatedly is that most are informed from hearsay rather than by what protection is really about. No protector does protection as explained below.
Your tests assume otherwise. Low impedance connection is critical. Surge energy is harmlessly absorbed in earth. Same principles define why a lightning rod works. Surge protection is always about a current path from cloud to earth that remains outside.
Then a surge is not inside hunting for earth destructively via appliances. Best protection for cable TV is a low impedance hardwire from cable to earth. Same protection must exist on every wire for each incoming utility cable.
However telephone and AC electric cannot connect directly to earth and provide utility service. So we do a next best thing. We use a protector to make a connection that a hardwire would do better.
Telephone was long required by codes and standards to have effective protection. Telcos install, for free, a protector located where their wires meet yours.
However and again, protection is defined by what absorbs energy. Most important component is an earth electrode that a homeowner is responsible to provide and maintain. That means no sharp bends, no splices, not inside metallic conduit, and as short a practicable.
Cable, TV, and satellite are required by codes and standards to already have effective protection. AC electric is not. Same low impedance requirements apply. Wire is too long, bundled with other wires above the box, and has multiple sharp bends going over the foundation.
Better protection means that ground wire goes through the foundation and down to earth. Shorter, no sharp bends, and separated from other non-grounding wires. And how much was known long ago to have effective protection.
Protectors are simple dumb science. Because protection is always about how hundreds of thousands of joules connect to and dissipate harmlessly outside in earth. Effective protectors are only connecting devices.
Earth ground is the protection. A protector is only as effective as earth ground and a connection to it. This summarizes installation rules — what an electrician or lineman must know. Reasons why it works and how earthing electrode should be installed is more involved.
Where is earth ground for power strips? Manufacturer will not discuss it. Concepts such as impedance makes obvious that a receptacle safety ground is not earth ground. A protector adjacent to appliances can only work by blocking or absorbing surges.
That will never happen. Including munitions dumps and telco COs. For superior protection, COs want their protectors up to 50 meters distant from electronics. Increased distance between protector and electronics increases protection for electrical reasons discussed above.
Ironically, best protector may have no connection to earth. Because that protector mounts on the earthing electrode. A zero foot connection means better protection. To appreciate how protection works even long before power strips existed , view highly regarded application notes from Polyphaser: A case study corrected surge protection for a Nebraska radio station.
Including mistakes made by station engineers by disconnecting earth grounds. Solution did nothing with protectors. It was about fixing earth grounds including one on the incoming utility telephone pole: These demonstrate what professional have been doing long before any of us even existed.
And what power strip manufacturers fear you might learn since knowledge would seriously diminish profits. Again, only summarized is well proven science.
Plenty more can be learned. What type of device are you referring to? A later reply eight days before your request defined effective protection. For example, its second paragraph summarizes effective solutions that are then defined in following paragraphs.
That 2nd paragraph says: Some popular myths often makes learning this stuff difficult. If a magic box does protection, then the fundamental concept still escapes you.
Protection is about one item that even harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. If you do not know what that device is, then reread the post. Or ask qeustions referencing what confuses you.
Anyone interested in the truth about surge protection should read two excellent guides on the subject written by multiple experts that probably have years comined experience.
From engineers at National Institute of Standards and Technology:. Both of those guides talk about using plug-in surge protectors as part of a surge protection strategy. You can decide who to believe, the experts or Tom who googles for any posts on the internet regarding surge protection and then makes the same posts with incorrect information again and again.
Regarding the main article, one part I would disagree with is the need to protect from surges within the house. While any appliance load can create a minor surge, these are not the typical destructive surges.
Those are usually caused by sources outside, eg lightning striking a utility line in the neighborhood. But that never happens. More typical is that lightning hits a wire down the block. The , amps never makes it anywhere near your house.
Most of that is shunted to ground via arcing near where it strikes and never makes it to the house to begin with. That would be a whole house surge protector, followed by plug-ins for critical appliances, particularly those that have mutliple cable connections besides AC, eg cable, phone, ethernet, etc.
For example, his first citation cites Dr Martzloff and a brochure: Protector earthed a surge destructively through computers. We replaced damaged semiconductors in that surge path to fully restore those computers.
Because it was a plug-in protector, it had no earth ground. So it earthed that surge destructively through computers. The attached brochure page 6 also says what is critical.
That plug-in protector without an earth ground is what? A fact so important as to be repeated in almost every previous post. Plug-in protectors have no earth ground. The other citation at http: Then on Adobe page Nobody said an adjacent protector does nothing.
Somehow that statement got subverted into plug-in protectors do not work. But IEEE defines how much protection is provided by proper earthing: A power strip may add 0. Clearly in the more recent NIST guide he wrote he lists plug-ins as one of the 3 choices and he does not say that they are harmful, ineffective, useless without a direct earth ground or not to be used without whole house protection.
As for the plug-ins being useless, you are totally misrepresenting what both of those documents say. They specifically recomment their use. MArtzloff states in the NIST surge protection guide that plug-ins are one of the three choices and the easiest to use.
Please read what is posted. Please stop reading selectively. A better path to earth via TV2 means TV1 was protected. That protector connected volts by a destrutively connection to earth.
It could have been TV1 or TV2. Because that protector was too close to appliances and too far from a service entrance ground. Had TV2 not existed, then a surge would go hunting destructively for earth via some other appliance.
Such as TV1, a dishwasher, or air conditioner. Once that surge current is inside, it goes hunting destructively with or without the protector. Either superior protection in each appliance protects that appliance.
Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. That is best protection for tens of times less money. But a protector, adjacent to appliances, must somehow block or absorb energy.
An adjacent protector can even make appliance damage easier — page 42 figure 8. Effective protection means that volts must not be inside the building. An honest recommendation says where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.
Even the IEEE says that often. Your citations clearly define which is needed: Unfortunately, many mistakenly assume secondary means power strips. Or that power strips are earthed. Then assume the IEEE is recommending them.
No power strip does that. Power strips avoid discussing that since being honest would hurt profits. As to what protected TV1 in that figure, clearly the experts are saying that it was the surge protector.
TV1 had a plug-in surge protector and it was not damaged. TV2 had no plug-in and it was damaged. They even explicitly state: As for dissipating hundrends of thousands of joules, it has been demonstrated with sound science that level of surge almost never enters a house to begin with.
Basic electrical principles tell you why. That much energy causes voltages that result in arcing and the associated lighning finds a path to ground, eg arcing over at the utility pole, arcing over at the service entrance, etc.
Nothing even close to that level ever gets near the TV, un;ess a lightning bolt from a cloud somehow directly hits the TV, which is a pathological case that no one here is worried about. Do you ever read what I post?
I said a plug-in protector works. Why do I say that and you repeatedly ignore it? It does what its manufacturer says it will do. IEEE then says it must be part of a system that also includes earthing.
An adjacent protector has numbers that define near zero protection. Every IEEE citation and virtually every other professional note that earthing is essential. Even numbers define how good that service entrance protection: A protector adjacent to appliances has no earthing.
It is for residual currents that might not be earthed at the service entrance. Relevant concepts such as impedance say how large that residual current. Residual currents must be so tiny as to not damage plug-in protectors.
Then the adjacent protector is doing what it is designed to do. Often a current too tiny to harm appliances will damage a grossly undersized and obscenely profitable protector.
How much current might be inside? You misread what I posted. You ignore what the IEEE demands as quoted — a low impedance connection to earth. IEEE says that earth ground must exist.
Only then can a power strip do what it is designed to do for residual currents. Residual currents must be so tiny as to not even damage a power strip. Plug-in protector works; does what its manufacturer says it will do.
And still you deny I said that. And still you ignore that a properly earthed service entrance protection must also exist. Quotes from the IEEE say so. So you ignore those quotes. Urban myths that claim power strip can be complete protection are bogus; are difficult to unlearn.
Why relevant technology involves equipotential so that same potential does exist. Concepts ignored to post a disparaging and ill informed denial. Apparently you do not understand another relevant term — low impedance.
Also essential to have effective protection that is not provided and is ignored by the other and completely different device unfortunately called a surge protector.
An appliance adjacent protector is for currents already made irrelevant by what exists in appliances. By ignoring numbers, then denials are posted, You posted nothing useful or informed. Most who post denials only read and believe advertising as if that is honest or informative.
You did not even comprehend what is singe point earth ground and clearly do not understand equipotential. Is best protection as well as costs tens of times less money. Here is a hint: No matter how beautiful your impedance matched star topology grounding system is, there are bound to be huge flaws as equipment casing must be connected to earth ground.
Sump pump in the basement? Hey, an impedance difference! Refrigerator hooked up to the plumbing? I hope the pipes are factored into your system! Any protection system must take into account the possibility that ANY input may be compromised.
Mode 2 protection systems do this, and are necessary for a fully protected system. If you knew how to read a research paper you would have already known this. Your inability to consider all possibilities, coupled with your disorganized and frantic writing style leads me to believe you are sitting firmly in the league of unconsciously incompetent.
Please give yourself a firm whack with a hammer of mental plasticity, and try to actually learn something. A naysayer may not know how protection has been done for over years. However due to sporadic and disjointed reasoning, then he may actually be agreeing with what was posted.
And not even realize it. Just not apparent due to his vague grasp of science. And sentences that make no sense. Somehow lightning is not electricity? Protector connected low impedance to single point earth ground is even why telcos all over the world suffer about surges with each thunderstorm.
Provide service during the entire storm. And suffer no equipment damage How often is your town without phone service for four days after each storm? Lightning is not a bomb.
Lightning is an electrical current — typically 20, amps. Direct lightning strikes without damage is routine in munitions dumps, electric facilities, broadcast stations, mines, rocket launching pads, radar stations, and homes.
That means a current connects cloud to ground without passing through any household appliances. As professionals have understood for over years. If protection is effective, then one who recommends it also says where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate.
And how that current gets there without passing destructively inside any structure or appliance. Those facts always exists when superior and less expensive solutions are implemented. I hope you can help me out.
Where is money best spent? Why would anyone spend so much money for so little additional protection? Because many recommend plug-in protectors by ignoring numbers.
Earth ground is where destructive surges are made irrelevant. More numbers from that second citation. Abode page 42 Figure 8 shows lightning on cable connected destructively through a nearby TV.
They could not be blunter. Lightning is earthed volts destructively through nearby TV2 by an adjacent and not earthed protector. Earth ground is critical. If missing, a surge goes hunting for earth destructively inside via appliances — without or without plug-in protectors.
Plug-in protectors might add a small and additional protection. Those citations say same. That diagram on page 42 shows TV1 being protected by a multi-port plug-in surge protector.
TV1 has a surge protectore and is protected from the damaging surge. To protect TV2, it needs one too. In fact, in the NIST document, Martzloff says that plug-ins are one of the three options and are the easiest.
Maybe during the next roundup. Thanks for the feedback! I worked at Sola Electric back in , and they made a heavy duty plug-in surge protector made out of an indestructible ferrro-resonant transformer.
I just Googled them and they still exist. If you want a real surge protector try them. Top ratings, all metal housing, filters, right angle plugs, circuit breakers and most importantly — they all have really low v clamping voltages.
I really appreciated this article and had done a search on Tripp Lite surge protector reviews. I was really surprised to read an article on ComputerWorld about the Tripp Lite surge protector and basically once it is shot there is no real way to know as it will continue to power without protection.
Here is the article link: Contacted APC technical support and they said to ignore the numbers imprinted on the bottom of the APC device and that real numbers are , , Hard to believe APC now.
I have spent plenty of time looking into the choices available before reading this article, and I have decided that there was one feature that most choices lacked that I decided was necessary and not much emphasized in the article: More commonly, the devices provide an LED that goes out, but that is not adequate — I would have to look at it and realize what I am not seeing.
These are some alarmed models: Although an alarm would be great. Joules has no real world meaning for surge protection. Even UL does not allow it for ratings.
Brent should list the voltage and current and duration of the surge. On average, one can see of these surges inside a building in a given year according to IEEE. Since you want to know — that equates to 90 joules.
I have seen the testing with my own eyes. Only Zero Surge has passed this test. Ill ask the question everyone is thinking…. Thats what the T2 circuitry said it would do.
Almost triple what our top pick costs depending on where you buy. Not all of the isobars are that much: A report on uninterruptible power supplies would be great.
My APC rs battery just died. Looked for a replacement wow. AGM cells are standard sizes. Unless you need more then two you can probably amazon your batteries for 50 bucks, and tape them together.
Is it a good idea to connect one surge protector to a wall outlet, then connect one more surge protector and then plug a PC to that one the 2nd one? So its like wall outlet-surge protector-surge protector-PC.
Will that double the protection or is it not such a good idea? Also against code — http: I edited my comment to not include that information. Our editor must have overlooked this. You totally overlooked the whole class of surge protectors that actually work e.
I have a Ph. Start by reading about series mode surge suppressors on Wikipedia. Here is an interesting thread of many on the web: Here are the two highest credibility manufacturers that have detailed white papers with descriptions of how they work and measurements.
The best implementations and largest choice of products is by SurgeX. If that is too steep, the second best is Zero Surge, who actually owns the patent that other series mode manufacturers like SurgeX license.
I have several of the stand-alones I used for numerous years from before I switched to SurgeX. If you read the fine print that comes with MOV based surge protectors, the manufactures recommend that you replace it every 1, 2 or 3 years since they have no idea how long it will work as a surge suppressor in your environment.
They all use the same design at the core and should last a lifetime. The focus of this article was on common, inexpensive office-type surge protectors. Maybe you can focus on the reasons why these inexpensive protectors are a waste of money.
Did you know that the protective MOV can fail but still allow the protector to provide power? Also, cheap surge protections can not be used with generators, with UPSs, in some maritime applications, ungrounded circuits, and anywhere you do not want electric interference on your ground line.
The last one affects most of us. Your wired communication phone, cable, LAN need the ground line to be clean for reference. If you use an MOV based protector, the surge energy is sent to the ground line.
The ground line then can lead the surge back into your equipment or cause data contamination. Whether or not they work on a boat or with a generator, for example, would likely be of concern to fewer than 0.
We have considered your point of view, and explained the reasoning behind why we chose to focus the article as we did. We are happy at this point to let our readers decide for themselves if they wish to buy one of the inexpensive models we tested, or one of the more advanced and much more costly models produced by firms such as yours.
While it seems unlikely at this point that you would agree to disagree, we do hope you can appreciate that we have provided you with a forum for promoting your products — a forum that has a far larger readership that you could ever attract on your own — all at no cost to you.
There were 13 million portable generators sold last year alone. So I disagree with the importance of this information. But the title implies you looked at all of the available surge protectors.
Good luck with your blog and thank you for not just cutting me out of the discussion. I try to only mention facts and I stand by everything I said. I think the approach this site takes towards most products is quite helpful, and I have spent much of my spare time in the last few days reading it.
You have accomplished a great deal. However, there are some products for which the idea of finding the best thing that most people are willing to pay for is not helpful. Three examples come to mind: I replace my fire extinguishers about ever years depending on the model and hope I never have to use one.
I have no comment on parachutes. It works for nearly all products, and I trust your research. In this case though, it seems the conclusion should be: But the best I can come up with: Who are you to say what I am or am not willing to pay?
The current title serves only to cause confusion in the marketplace… is APC a sponsor? For all practical situations — i. We looked at several other brands as well and actually did testing.
Please read the guide. Then again, a google search led me to this article which may have been the point all along. Doug, Thank you for your endorsement. As the President of Zero Surge, I find it interesting that the reviewer does not want to include our technology.
Our product has no real shelf life. Any MOV based surge protector has a shelf life in months. So the costs are equal over the life of your equipment. MOVs do not warn you when they are about to die.
They do not tell you that the next surge will wipe out both your tv and the surge protector. MOVs send the surge to the ground line which interrupts data transmission and is a back door into your tv and computer.
Joule rating is not a real measure of effectiveness. Joule rating degrades exponentially. That means one surge drops the rating up to ten times lower and after ten surges it can drop the rating times!
Joule rating is not an official UL rating specification. Zero Surge technology can be used in all V applications. I agree with the other posters. If you want to title the article about who is the best, then include the best.
If you want to title it the cheapest then say that. This surge wave affects your equipment up to times each year. We have an in house unit that survived over years of surges!
Thank you to the others that have endorsed our product. We just celebrated our 25th year protecting your equipment. We look forward to many more years of protection. They only work on voltage rise.
Every time you turn on power, the current rises quickly and creates pin holes and melted microscopic beads in your power supplies components. Zero Surge protectors have no wear parts.
We have twenty plus year old products working as well as brand new ones. MOVs can not say that. Every surge degrades an MOV. Much depends on where you live and whether or not lightning is big in your area, also depends on the number and types of devices you have in your household and whether or not you have a whole house surge protector.
The lifetime warranty is another manufacturing gimmick. Your homeowners insurance may also not cover your losses. About eleven years ago, the apartment across the hall from mine had a direct lightning strike, which ruined all of the electrical devices that were plugged in.
In my apartment, on the circuit that powered the living room, the only thing that was damaged was a telephone answering machine. Everything else on that circuit was plugged into a Zero Surge device.
Can you tell me how much power a typical zero surge unit draws when on with nothing plugged in to it? One brief note- We pride ourselves on reviewing products that most people can buy i.
And if we do, it will likely be catering to a niche group of people that need them for digital music equipment or expensive home setups that need this type of surge protection. The premise is wrong.
Ground is used as a reference by electronics and designers of electronics expect ground to be at zero or near zero volts confession, I design electronics and expect it to be at zero volts.
When ground reaches or volts even on the same surge suppressor all sort of bad things can happen. Manufactures prefer to sell triple mode protection because it sounds better than single mode protection.
They also want to sell models that protect data ports, phone or coaxial connections — its marketing and that is the world we live in. They may well have replaced their electronics or computers several times in that time frame and unfortunately they may never know how much damage was done to it by surges.
Speaking of budgets, many households in the US still have only 2 wire outlets no ground connection. Where does it go? Chances are higher that an explosion or fire will ensue. The people who are least likely able to afford other technologies will actually create a bigger hazard with the MOV based surge suppressor.
Some of my electronics is 40 years old and would be difficult to replace. So again, the premise is all wrong. This is a well written, informative article targeted to the average consumer.
As such it discusses the somewhat nebulous topic of surge protection in a practical, no-nonsense way. After reading through many of the subsequent comments I would like to offer a few clarifying points based on my experience with the subject.
I apologize in advance for the length of my ten point reply! As the article mentions, MOVs should always be fused for safety. Previous versions of UL called for a Suppressed Voltage Rating, which was based on a less stringent test waveform and is therefore not comparable.
Make sure you are buying products tested to the latest UL safety standard. Underwriters Labs does not test joule rating and does not include it in their required safety markings.
MOV data sheets do include data for joules, but individual MOVs are tested with a specific pulse waveform which can be different from MOV manufacturer to MOV manufacturer, and the test itself provides the maximum joules when the MOV clamping voltage begins to degrade.
There is a lot of literature on the subject of the misconceptions of joule ratings and I encourage readers to search for it. One joule can also be 10,W times microseconds.
You have to characterize both the magnitude and duration of the pulse in order to characterize the number of joules of energy that can be dissipated by an MOV. For example one of the units tested here states J, but the data sheet clarifies that each mode has only Joules, so the total for the three modes is just over joules.
Modes are explained in more detail below. While it would seem that this is a good idea, in fact it is not. With a 3-Mode surge protector, dangerous surge energy can be diverted in to the ground connection.
This energy will cause ground current to flow, and therefore there will be voltage differentials in the ground system. Differences in the ground voltage will cause current to flow into the grounds of connected equipment resulting in ground noise and damage.
A 3-mode surge protector is recommended at the service entrance to a house or facility where the neutral and safety ground are bonded together to the earth ground. Surges and spikes downstream from the breaker panel typically occur on the Line.
In this design, surge currents are diverted only into the neutral, which is of course bonded to the safety ground back at the service entrance — typically the breaker panel in the home.
A 3-Mode protector will allow this leakage current to be dumped into the ground connection, which can then flow into the signal shields of audio equipment. Further complicating things, the MOV has some capacitance, so high frequency noise on the AC line will be coupled into the ground connection, and will eventually find its way into the audio path.
It is best practice to avoid contaminating the ground connection at all costs. These high and low line conditions tend to stress the internal power supplies of the equipment causing excessive heating, and or dropouts.
It is advisable to select a surge protector that has over voltage and undervoltage protection that disconnects the load from the incoming line under those conditions.
This protection should automatically reset when the line voltage is within tolerance, typically within VAC and VAC. Very few manufactures offer cost-effective MOV based surge protectors with automatically resettable voltage protection, but they are available.
It made my cable internet unusable. They help you save money by wasting less energy than plugging your equipment straight to the wall outlet. Does this surge protector also offer this benefit?
There are surge protectors in the US non-surge in Europe that have a Master controlled outlet and controlled outlets. When you power down the computer or put it into sleep mode, the other devices power down completely.
Bits and Limited 3rd generation models have the sensitivity adjustment threshold, the 4th generation models do not. And yes, the 3rd generation models work great. If I want to make my own surge protector, what are the best mov varistors that I can buy?
I only found this on Amazon. Should I use one for hot-to-ground and neutral-to-ground? Are there other components necessary? Will connecting a surge protector to another surge protector give additional protection?
Some protectors have an LED indicating surge protection. How does that work? Does it fade as the varistor wears out? Lastly, would you happen to know how the single outlet Belkin MasterCube compares to these units?
Also, each surge protector only really needs to handle a laptop or desktop, two monitors, a USB phone charger, and maybe a calculator or small fan. For this kind of protection I would look at installing protection at an electrical panel for one or more branch circuits.
I would highly consider a ZeroSurge or SurgeX model here. None of these will protect from a real surge because they all use MOVs. Stick with series mode surge protectors, such as ones from Brickwall or SurgeX.
Good surge protectors are not a disposable device like some sort of lightning condom, they are a valuable asset that protects everything you plug into it: I would never use anything less than these.
What might happen if I do? There are at least 4 issues when you daisy chain them. If they are not heavy duty 12 or 14 gauge cords, the heat can cause a fire.
The more an MOV works the faster it wears out. Just ask any Fire Marshall about it. Plug in a device which is most likely to generate surges — into a surge suppressor? Many makers of MOV based surge suppressors also warn consumers from using the MOV based surge suppressor in this manner and for good reason.
Plus it will pollute or contaminate GROUND affecting all of your electronics and appliances in the home and provide another way for a surge to enter. The fire would scare people the most especially if you came home and your house burned down.
And you will in all likelihood be unable to collect any insurance from the SP company because you violated the usage manner, and perhaps be unable to collect anything from your insurance company because you used an MOV based surge suppressor incorrectly.
MOV surge suppressors are cheap for a reason — namely they provide a false sense of security. They should be outlawed or designed for protection across the L-N only. After reading your article about surge protectors, I find these prices hard to believe, are they fibbing, how do they do it, technically speaking that is.
Please let me know. One last thing, is it a good idea to protect a lamp with a LED light bulb, with a surge protector, or is some other device better suited to protect LED light bulbs.
Read the fine print that comes with many surge suppressors or search Consumer Reports if you have access to them. And anything that costs more then a SmartUPS is probably also good. With todays electronics, more and more power supplies have Active Power Factor Correction.
Even if your existing computer does not have an Active PFC power supply, chances are your next computer will and for that considering a unit that outputs a true full or pure Sine wave is good advice.
While some electronics will run on a simulated sine wave, over long periods of time a simulated sine wave will damage the electronics. Has a built in surge protector and overload protection. With two sockets on each side to give you outlets reach from all sides.
I agree with the posters who point out the deficiencies of this article. A good article would discuss the different architectures, not just different models. Then the reader can decide how much to spend.
Thanks goes out to the commentators! If you pay more you will get better quality. There is a difference between informing the public of more expensive, style protectors and being an elitist snob.
Now you lost the data, have to jump through hoops to see if you can replace the computer, might have to send the computer in and anything else that was damaged and then settle for fair-market replacement i.
Now you get no warranty. One day your HDMI ports are working fine, the next they stop working. I guarantee the first time this happens to you you will say never again. This happened to me and made me an overnight believer.
I am not ashamed for wanting to help out other consumers. All I am trying to do is to help someone else avoid the pain of going through what I went through. As for the Belkin BSTbg, did you actually screw into the wall plate?
If components are plugged into the surge protector, when the power is turned on by flipping the switch on the SP and the components then receive power, does this damage the components with repeated use?
If so, how do I avoid this? The way I understand it is initially all electronics want to consume up to 10 times more current than they would normally use. This is known as inrush current. If the circuit breaker for the outlet in which the SP is plugged into is rated for 15A, it can withstand The inrush will be over in milliseconds.
Long term, this inrush can damage electronics but it really depends on the type of electronics. Or doing so in the event of a lighting storm? A way to limit inrush current is to use a Sequencer which employs ICL Inrush Current Limiting devices and powers on individual banks of outlets.
I am so sorry, but some of the information is a wee bit over my head. Let me try to clarify and hopefully you will help me get it right. I have my computer, monitor, printers, and router plugged into the SP.
I typically shut down my computer with the printers off I occasionally forget , but my router and monitor are still on. I then turn the switch off on the SP. In the morning, I turn on the SP monitor and router get power immediately and then power up my computer and turn on a printer or two.
Am I damaging my components with this method? If so, is my only option to purchase something to eliminate the inrush? Properly designed electronics are supposed to have some kind of inrush current limiting but the end-user may never known.
In other words whether you use the APC Sp or a regular outlet strip no surge protection you still face the same issues with respect to inrush current. The RED outlets are always on and you might want to plug the router in that kind of outlet if you use it for a smart phone while at home.
As consumers we put a lot of faith and trust in the manufacturers of the electronics we purchase from them. The title of this article is misleading. Also never mentioned in the article is that manufactures of MOV based surge suppressors recommend that you replace the unit once every 1,2 or 3 years because they have no idea how long the unit will work where you live at.
What happens if I am not home at the time? Turns out this is applicable to all MOV based surge suppressors, but how many people actually do this? After finding two of my Belkin surge suppressors both used less than 4 months with problems: A consumer does not want to be bothered during the middle of a movie with a failed device.
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